They can fix that during build

The inside of the roof is done! This picture is a bit distorted, both edges are really curved. It took a lot of clamps, but other than that no real issues with the build. I did run into a couple of minor issues with the placement of the roof spars though.

When I designed the roof, I really didn’t think too much about the joints in the roof pieces. I ended up making 3 pieces (shown in red, green, and yellow) – the red/green joint is behind the shelf in the front of the cabin, and the green/yellow joint is in the cabinet, so they are pretty inconspicuous. But it would have been easier to make the butt joints between the pieces if I’d moved the 2 ribs shown to back up the joints – no reason not to, I just wasn’t looking far enough ahead when I did the design.


I just glued in some strips of 1/8″ plywood to back up the joints. No big deal, but I’ll fix it in the design for Mark II. Along with all the stuff we end up wanting to change once we start actually using it.


The other issue I found is the in the work surface where the induction plate fits in. The cutout was just a little undersized – nothing a little belt sander work couldn’t fix. Better than being too big. Also, the power cord needed a little more clearance, so some hand router work was needed.

It was finally warm and dry enough outside to do the seal on the bottom of the bed – 3 cans of Henry’s Wet Seal should be good. This was a good thing to do outside – the fumes were pretty bad outside, in the garage in the winter with the door closed I probably would have passed out. After this dries I can flip the base over and bolt it to the frame.

We picked out the Formica for the work surface. Since we’re ordering it, I’ve got a few days to put in the floor (vinyl) and dry fit the walls again to start laying out the electrical system before I do the assembly of the cabin. We’re going to avoid the 50’s look of a lot of teardrops and go more Steampunk, so be prepared to some gears and brass.

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